At Dior, there was one distinct through-line above the neck: A sooty black smoky eye designed to rebel, full stop.
At Dior, a Classic Smoky Eye Gets a Punk Makeover
Today, Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled Dior's fall film Disturbing Beauty, a kind of sinister fairytale that found models stomping through the hallowed, reflective walls of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. In exploring the dark side of the idealized stories that colored our thinking as kids, Chiuri reimagined the young female heroines that starred in them, such as Cinderella, Beauty and the Beast, Alice in Wonderland, and Little Red Riding Hood, all with a grittier attitude. While each of these these themes was translated differently in the clothes, there was one distinct through-line above the neck: A sooty black smoky eye designed to rebel, full stop.
"[Maria] didn’t want an eye that seduces," explains makeup artist Peter Philips of this season's vision. "She wanted a strong eye [that was] dark without being gothic." The nuances that helped achieve this? Some heavy-handed tightlining with a dark black Diorshow 24H Stylo pencil along the lashlines and an intense cut-crease that saw matte onyx pigment from the Diorshow Mono Couleur Couture palette smudged on the inner and outer corners of the eye, the negative space "creating a highlight with the natural skin tone," explains Philips. Q-tips were used to blend out the lines into a blunt, horizontal shape with a soft-focus finish. Lashes were intentionally left bare. "When you add mascara, it becomes more sensual," he explains. "When you take away mascara, it becomes more of a conceptual eye...more painterly."
In explaining the mood of the look, Philips noted that the presentation's mise en scène rendered the eye statement even more dramatic, stressing that lighting and environment can have a radical impact. "The context of the girls walking next to mirrors in dark evening light with a spotlight enhanced that punk character of the makeup look," he explains. "If you were to see this look by candlelight, it would look much more romantic because then you see the glow in the skin and the soft edges of the eye." In other words, no matter what deep emotions you're feeling or which four walls surround you, it's an equal parts moody and versatile eye statement for our times.
This story originally appeared on: Vogue - Author:CelebDailyPosts
