Bright Eyeshadow Has a Moment at Proenza Schouler

Because even downtown cool girls are ready to live in color again.

Bright Eyeshadow Has a Moment at Proenza Schouler

The Proenza Schouler beauty codes are nothing if not consistent. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have forever furnished the downtown cool girl with a strong brow, clean skin, unfussy hair, and an occasionally sculpted cheekbone. “It’s not minimal, but it’s modern,” according to hairstylist Guido Palau, who was describing this season’s riff on those time-honored aesthetic traditions: For Spring 2022, Palau air-dried hair using just Bumble and Bumble’s Grooming Cream, which gave models like Gigi Hadid the kind of wavy definition that got better and better as the wind and humidity picked up at Little Island, the outdoor amphitheater-turned-show venue—with spectacular Hudson River views—that opened on Manhattan’s west side earlier this summer. “But conformity isn’t so important to fashion shows anymore,” Palau noted, which is why he also fashioned a series of long box braids and sleek ponytails pulled back from the hairline and plaited through the ends with a piece of thin black elastic for precise definition, and a hint of youth. “A knot can feel a little too sophisticated sometimes,” Palau explained of the deliberate decision to move away from more predictable chignons.

“All three styles could be seen on the street, or if you wandered by an art gallery and saw a woman inside,” he added—a description that could just as easily be applied to the near perfect, bare complexions that were treated to preshow mini-facials by Tata Harper, whose Hydrating Floral Essence was in the air backstage, where even McCollough was indulging in a few spritzes of the nourishing mist. Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept skin fresh with strong brows and bronzed cheeks. Then, a break from the archetype: three models received slashes of heart-stopping eyeshadow to compliment the pops of color—electric fuchsia! Bright tangerine! Cherry red!—that appeared throughout the collection. A particularly striking turquoise pigment, which Kendal layered on top of a cream base, added a hint of cautious optimism to an olive trench coat. Because even downtown cool girls are ready to live in color again.

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This story originally appeared on: Vogue - Author:Celia Ellenberg