Khiry’s Jameel Mohammed Thinks of His Hair as “Material for an Ever-Changing Sculpture”

Jewelry designer Jameel Mohammed shares his hair journey, from embracing expressive styles to working on a hair jewelry line.

Portrait (June, 2021) Mohammed captured a series of self-portraits over the summer, celebrating his hair and self-confidence. 

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

Texture Diaries is a space for Black people across industries to reflect on their journeys to self-love, and how accepting their hair, in all its glory, played a pivotal role in this process. Each week, they share their favorite hair rituals, products, and the biggest lessons they’ve learned when it comes to affirming their beauty and owning their unique hair texture.

With his brand Khiry, Jameel Mohammed is engaged in the art of creating Afrofuturist-inspired gold and silver jewelry. A CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist, Mohammed has adorned the likes of Regina King, Naomi Osaka, and Issa Rae. “I think the most rewarding part about what I do is seeing my vision realized,” the Chicago-raised, New York-based designer tells Vogue. “That’s a very powerful thing to experience. It really can boost your confidence, especially since I’m coming from a place where I thought, at one point, no one would buy into this or support it. This journey has helped me view my life as a subject of my own creativity, fueled by my own drive and ambition.” That new perspective has led Mohammed to express himself through his hair, which most recently has meant wearing locs

Not without fear (June, 2021) "I like to think of my hair as material for ever-changing sculpture (when I want it to be). I’ve had a lot of fun as I’ve grown it out: achieving new shapes and styles that change the look ever so slightly,” Mohammed says.

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

Sees Through Plenty (July, 2021) “Even in periods of abundance there’s some small part within that tells me to question it, to look for the catch, to plan for the worst. It’s an impulse I’m still working on tempering.” 

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

“I think Black, masculine hair is a very interesting topic that isn’t often talked about,” he says. “Growing up, I felt self-conscious because of those standards. The hair at my hair line grows in all different directions, so it’s always been difficult for me to get that super crispy line that everyone seems to want,” he adds with a laugh. Growing up, seeing his mother rock her locs was a source of inspiration amid the other noise. “I always saw taking care of locs as a really cool and beautiful process. But I was also intimidated by the maintenance,” he says. Still, he loved their expressive potential. “In a way, the style can blur the lines of gender–if you look at someone from behind, you can’t necessarily tell if they’re a boy or a girl. I liked the idea of anything that got me outside of signifying those gender roles,” he says. 

Even as he began relying on fashion as a form of self-expression in middle school, Mohammed says hair-styling eluded him growing up. He occasionally explored shapes with his fro, but generally felt a pressure to stick to more conservative styles to navigate majority-white spaces “with as little friction as possible.” Growing out his hair today, he adds, “is indicative of the sense of confidence and freedom I’ve achieved."

Long Night II (June, 2021) “These days I’m often in the studio into the early morning. I took this one night before catching a 5 a.m. Uber home for the night. It doesn’t always feel worth it, but it always is.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

Looking Forward (June, 2021) “A moment of contented hope.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

In college at the University of Pennsylvania, Mohammed began growing his hair out. Three years later, when quarantine began, he had new time to both focus on his craft and care for his hair in a new way. "I came to a point where I was like, even if my business and everything around me collapses, I still had my creativity, knowledge, and self to care for,” he says.

These days, Mohammed relies on Jamaican black castor oil to keep his hair moisturized while retwisting the locs, plus a green tea shampoo to nourish his scalp. Khiry hair accessories are in the works, and Mohammed notes his excitement at eventually decorating his locs with them. Overall, he’s relishing his more expansive vision when it comes to hair and beauty. “I used to feel like I couldn’t rock vertical styles because I’m already so tall. But now I’m at a point where I’m like, if I want to grow my hair really long and pile it on top of my head, or if I want to rock those platform heels, I can and I will,” he says. “ Life's too short to deny myself the pleasure of at least exploring.”    

Quick break (June, 2021) “I shot this in an afternoon in the midst of a tense day full of meetings in the studio…I always have an option now to take a break from the grind of trying to have the work recognized and understood by creating in this ad hoc way.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

Small Black Luxuries (July, 2021) “Black-owned companies produced all of the items in this image, and there is a luxury of small and great magnitude in being able to shape my life in conversation with them all.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jameel Mohammed

Bevel Curl Creme

$12WALMARTShop Now

Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Hair Growth Oil

$9TROPIC ISLEShop Now

This story originally appeared on: Vogue - Author:Akili King