Just 1 in 4 Sunscreens Are Safe and Effective, Report Claims—Do Dermatologists Agree? But experts say that may not be entirely true
An Environmental Working Group report claimed only a quarter of sunscreens on the market are safe and effective
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- A new report from the Environmental Working Group (EWG) claims less than 23% of sunscreens are safe and effective.
- Experts say the EWG’s data was limited and noted the group’s financial conflicts of interest.
- The ideal sunscreen is broad-spectrum, water-resistant, has an SPF of 30 or higher, and is used regularly.
Only about one in four sunscreens are safe and work well, according to a new report from the Environmental Working Group (EWG).
The report found that 498 out of 2,204 sunscreens met the organization’s criteria, with many products containing supposedly harmful chemicals, outdated formulas, or misleading SPF protection claims.
However, several experts told Health that the report may exaggerate the dangers of sunscreens available in the U.S.
The report isn’t published in a peer-reviewed scientific journal, and in the past, researchers have heavily criticized EWG for making misleading claims about chemical safety. The EWG may also have some financial conflicts of interest with the sunscreens it’s reviewing, experts added.
Here’s what to know about the new report, whether you should be concerned about the safety and efficacy of your favorite sunscreen and how to best protect your skin.
How Did the EWG Evaluate Sunscreen Safety?
The EWG assessed sunscreens based on five different factors:
- Health hazards, based on reviews of ingredients
- Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection
- Ultraviolet A (UVA) protection
- Balance between UVB and UVA protection
- Sunscreen stability, or how long it takes for an ingredient to break down in the sun
The organization weighed efficacy and safety, and also flagged products with the following “concerning factors”:
- Oxybenzone or vitamin A in the ingredient list
- Spray or powder formulation
- SPF above 50+
- UV protection lower than the SPF value suggests
- Banned marketing claims on the label, such as the word “sunblock”
What the EWG Found—And Where Experts Disagree
Based on these metrics, only about 23% of sunscreens in the U.S. are considered safe and effective.
However, Adam Friedman, MD, chair of dermatology at the George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, said the report’s authors “are cherry-picking the safety studies,” leading to inflated claims.
Chemicals in Sunscreen
The EWG’s report raised the alarm about chemical sunscreens—these are products that protect your skin by absorbing light from the sun.
Though use is on the decline, chemical sunscreens containing an ingredient called oxybenzone are a concern, the EWG claimed, as they can disrupt your hormone system.
However, experts disagree with the notion that oxybenzone is dangerous—though there is some evidence that it can get absorbed into the bloodstream, it doesn’t seem to have a negative biological impact on people. There are “very large data sets” out there that show that “chemical sunscreens are not endocrine disruptors,” Friedman told Health.
The report also flagged chemical sunscreens that contained ingredients such as octocrylene, which have links to coral reef harm. But Friedman again disagreed—research hasn’t found sufficient evidence that these ingredients would ever reach high enough concentrations to be harmful to coral in the real world.
Similarly on the decline, sunscreens containing vitamin A degrade in the sunlight and accelerate skin damage, the report said.
Vitamin A has been largely phased out because it may not be sun-stable, Friedman agreed. However, some research suggests vitamin A in sunscreen is protective of skin health, not harmful, he explained.
Spray Sunscreens
The EWG report warns against ever-popular spray sunscreens, saying they apply unevenly and pose inhalation risks.
Experts agreed: Many people don’t apply spray sunscreen properly.
However, “studies show that there are no health risks in common spray sunscreens,” Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD, a dermatologist in private practice in Dallas, told Health. They also provide an extra option for people who wouldn’t otherwise use sunscreen.
Misleading SPF Claims
The EWG report claimed that sunscreens with high levels of SPF protection are misleading to consumers, because having an SPF over 50 provides diminishing returns. For reference:
- SPF 30 sunscreen blocks 98% of rays.
- SPF 50 sunscreen blocks 98% of rays.
- SPF 100 sunscreen blocks 99% of rays.
These high-SPF sunscreens might “lull users into a false sense of security,” the report said.
This is a valid concern: “A higher SPF doesn’t mean you can stay outside longer without reapplying,” Susan Taylor, MD, president of the American Academy of Dermatology and professor of dermatology at Penn Medicine, told Health. “Sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours, or sooner after swimming or sweating.”
But high SPF sunscreens aren’t always a bad thing, Friedman added. “There are numerous clinical trials showing that people apply about a quarter or even half of what’s needed to get [a certain] SPF number,” he explained. So if people aren’t applying enough sunscreen, using a higher-SPF product could help further protect their skin.
Restrictive Guidelines and Outdated Formulas
EWG’s report said Food and Drug Administration (FDA) standards are lagging behind those in the European Union—the U.S. doesn’t allow the use of newer sun-filtering chemicals in sunscreen products, which could put consumers at risk of using outdated or ineffective formulas.
But Houshmand said it’s a good thing that the sunscreen standards in the U.S. are “very strict,” since research has been able to show that none of the ingredients in available products “pose a risk to human health.”
Experts’ Concerns with the EWG Report
The EWG’s report encourages people to use the select sunscreens that meet their criteria, though some experts raised concerns that their findings may actually make people more skeptical of sunscreen use.
“If you read the headline that less than a quarter of sunscreens are safe and effective, you’re gonna think, ‘What’s the point?’” Friedman said.
The report also provides affiliate links so customers can purchase sunscreens on their approved list, which could present a financial conflict of interest. EWG has companies pay a product evaluation fee, as well as an annual licensing fee, Ida Orengo, MD, professor and chair of dermatology at Baylor College of Medicine, told Health.
Protecting Yourself From the Sun
In the end, experts and the EWG report agree that the best kind of sunscreen is the kind that you remember to use every day.
According to Taylor, people should look for sunscreen that is:
- Broad-spectrum
- Water-resistant
- 30 SPF or higher
“This type of sunscreen helps protect your skin from sunburn, early aging, and skin cancer,” she said.
It’s also important that you’re applying that sunscreen correctly:
- Put sunscreen on any skin not covered by clothing (especially sensitive areas such as the lips and around the eyes).
- Use enough sunscreen to fully and evenly cover your skin, which is usually about one ounce.
But sunscreen is only one part of a successful skin protection regimen. Friedman, Taylor, and Orengo also suggest:
- Wearing wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and protective clothing
- Seeking shade when it’s sunny
- Being cautious around water, snow, and sand, as they reflect sunlight
Julia Landwehr
Julia is the associate news editor for Health, where she edits and publishes news articles on trending health and wellness topics. Her work has been featured in The Heights, an independent student newspaper at Boston College, and Minnesota Monthly.
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This story originally appeared on: Health News - Author:Simon Spichak
