"I no longer wanted to treat [plus-sizes] like a second thought."
Prabal Gurung's Lane Bryant Collection Is HereāAnd It Is š„š„š„
Between modeling for the 2014 Isabel Toledo x Lane Bryant collection (#throwback!) and overseeing 2017's Glamour x Lane Bryant campaigns, I've been on my share of sets for the plus-size retailer. So you can imagine my surprise when I was invited to visit the Prabal Gurung x Lane Bryant photo shoot this January, only to be held outside the doors, facing a sign that read āCLOSED SET. DO NOT ENTER.ā While I waited, I heard whispers that the tight security was because Inez and Vinoodh were shooting the campaignāa shock, TBH, since photographers on that level have traditionally steered clear of plus-size, well, anything.
āPrabal set a new standard,ā said Ashley Graham, Gurung's model for the day. āHe said we weren't doing this without [Inez and Vinoodh]āand it takes someone like him who knows what he wants and is respected in the industry to get them." According to Graham, it's good for the bigger picture of size inclusion in fashion. "Having a shoot like this means that other people of their caliberāthe Anna Wintours, Steven Meisels, and Miuccia Pradas of the worldāwill see it and say, āOh! Thatās not cheesy,'" she said. "Thatās what itās going to take to change the industry."
Another thing Gurung brought to the table: clothes that are better than those currently offered on the plus-size market. āItās a quality that was missing,ā Graham said. āHeās upped the ante from their core collections, and thatās what women want. Iām a curvy woman who wants designer clothes, and I have friends that want to spend the money too, but its not there.ā The collectionāwhich you can see below on models Barbie Ferreira and Iman McDonnaughādoes feel more "designer" than the usual fare; it's made up of workwear and evening wear in classic silhouettes with chic colorways, hand-painted prints, and just enough attention to detail (those lace-ups!). So how exactly did Gurung bring luxury to plus-size clothing? Why is he hellbent on changing the space? And what does he have to say to other designers? Hear it from the man himself.
GLAMOUR: What do you think was missing from the plus-size market that you brought with this collaboration?
PRABAL GURUNG: With this collection, we really wanted to bring a breadth of offeringsāfrom everyday knits to a great layering trench to a sexy evening jumpsuit. Many collaborations of the past focus on one nicheācocktail, lingerieāso with our collaboration, we took the approach that we take with our ready-to-wear collections and designed to offer our woman something for every element of her busy life.
GLAMOUR: Were there any major differences between designing for this and your main line?
PG: There arenāt any, to be completely honest. I didn't want to do this collection for āthis segment of marketā; I wanted to approach it as I do for my main line, and I didnāt want to compromise at all. Iām celebrating the essence of who she isāI donāt really care about her size.
GLAMOUR: Is there something you learned that you didnāt know about design before making this Lane Bryant collection?
PG: We worked very closely with the Lane Bryant team on the technicality.
The real learning was through having conversations with real women and being moved by their stories. To listen to them and really hear them, to understand how they feel and what their experience is like at other retailers, to take that and bring them what they wantāthat was the learning for us.
GLAMOUR: What were your biggest challenges? What surprised you?
PG: What I found more astonishing than challenging was the fact that our industry is so closed-minded about plus sizes. In fashion, the majority of people have a herd mentality, an inability to take risks and stand for their convictions. But Iāll do it. I donāt care what anyone else says. Here we are complaining about a challenging retail landscape that everyoneās facingāall the stores are closingāand this is a billion dollar industry that is absolutely underserved. Thereās a solution right in front of us and nobody is addressing it! Businesswise, I just didnāt understand that.
GLAMOUR: A number of designers say they will make plus sizes, but if retailers wonāt stock them, what can they do?
PG: As a brand, weāve offered up to size 22 since 2009, but we donāt have a retail outlet that buys above a size 14. When I go to Saks, Barneys, Bergdorf, and Neiman storesāwhich I do oftenāto meet with the salespeople, they always tell me they need bigger sizes. I canāt answer the logistical reasons they donāt have bigger sizes, but it seems to me that itās a lack of communication. My advice to other designers who want to get into the space is to just do it. There are ways to reach that clientele without the retailers, and itās important for fashion brands to be inclusive in all ways. My goal is to open my own storeāwhich is part of the growth planāwhere Iām definitely going to have a room for her.
GLAMOUR: What else do you think will move the plus-size market forward?
PG: An elevated conversation about this woman, who has felt slighted for a long time. Compromising is not the way to do this. Thatās why, with this campaign, I insisted on Inez and Vinoodh and Ashley Graham. I no longer wanted to treat [plus sizes] like a second thought. I pretty much sat down with Lane Bryant and said, āIf Iām going to do it, thatās all-important to me.ā
On a personal level, I know what it feels like to grow up and not find someone who looks like you, who you can identify with, in pop culture. It takes a lot of courage, conviction, integrity, knowledge, and experience to be finally comfortable with yourself, and I want to shorten that process for people, like my young nieces.
GLAMOUR: So how did this collaboration actually come about?
PG: Itās been almost three years in the making. I was at a diversity panel, and there was a woman who said, āYouāre all talking so much about Asian models and black models, what about plus-size women?ā And everyoneās response was, āOh, weāll get to you.ā And I kept seeing incidents like this happen. Another time, I had a trunk show in Palm Beach, and there was a bigger woman there who was touching everything, and I said, āSee it, feel it, and we can make up to certain sizes.ā But she was looking only from afar. And a year ago I was in a taxi on 6th Avenue and West 4th Street at a red light, and this big bus came by that said #ImNoAngel. I got home, sent myself an email, and came to work the next day and said Iām ready to do this.
GLAMOUR: And why get involved now?
PG: We're moving in the right direction: diversity. The most exciting thing about the time we live in is the celebration of different kinds of people. Young people are shifting the needle in that direction, and weāthe establishmentābetter catch up with that. Iām talking about designers, magazines, retailers, modeling agenciesāeveryone needs to come together to redefine the idea of beauty. Weāre so accustomed to this one viewpoint of what is beautiful. Weāre barraged with the idea that you have to be tall, size 2, and white to be considered beautiful. For me, I need to be able to set an example. If I can be part of this changeāeven if I am able to shift things a little bitāthatās a job well done.
GLAMOUR: How do you want to contribute to the change?
PG: I consider myself a big-time feminist. I want to live in a world where women have options to choose whatever they want to wear. Thatās what I want.
Prabal Gurung x Lane Bryant will be available in sizes 14 to 28 on February 27 at lanebryant.com and select stores.
Related:
The Full Story Behind the Size 18 Dress Tanya Taylor Made Aidy Bryant
How the Body-Positive Movement Changed Red-Carpet Fashion
This story originally appeared on: Glamour - Author:Lauren Chan